Russia: on and off the beaten track
We've never liked touristy spots. Wherever we go we do our best to find something that's not hackneyed, something with a difference.
We're going to write in this blog about such places which are attractive to tourists and still remain authentic.
Showing posts with label off the beaten track. Show all posts
Showing posts with label off the beaten track. Show all posts
Russian Cuisine is something not so expansively promoted as Italian Cuisine. However, overall Russian food is healthier if we delve into the subject. Sugar, coffee, cakes were not common in the mostly argricultural country. Such vegetables as beetroot, cabbage, turnip were cooked in stoves (pech') I think if nowadays chefs were not so narrow-mindedly concentrated on making pizzas, frog's legs or foie Gras they would learn a lot from what was Russian Cuisine in the past.
I've written about some hotels and souvenirs you might bring from Vladimir hereand about VladimirArt Centre here. In this post I 'll write about the Nunnery with mostly preserved frescoes, art gallery, restaurants of Vladimir.
Well, you will certainly enjoy Uspensky Cathedral: not only Rublev's frescoes but also the rich baroque iconostasis. However, take a walk around the city: there are many more sights to see.
The festival is called after one of the most remarkable films by Tarkovsky, Zerkalo (the Mirror) 1974. The film is autobiographical. A famous and irresistible Russian actress Margarita Terekhova is starring as a protagonist of Andrey's mother.
The beauty of Margarita Terekhova, which the time has spared regardless hard work and much emotional burden of starring in lots of Russian films, is of that rare now kind which enlightens everything around and stands alone, not the kind of "American beauty" that is so standardized that makes people sick.
It's high time to tell you about our cafe experience which was truly very pleasant. You know there are towns around Moscow that can boast good cuisine and cosy, stylish restaurants at prices MUCH lower than those in Moscow.
However, since the place looked like an ordinary eatery for having snacks, without any hope for anything special we dropped in Dobrynya Cafe on Sovetskaya street .
A trip to Tver only takes 1.5-2.5 hours depending on the traffic. Well, for Russians its nothing. In this post I am going to add to the image of Tver as a relaxing and pleasant city.
Serpukhov(Serpuhov) is an interesting place to visit for everyone.Here's the post about the churches and attractions of Serpuhov.
However, when it comes to hotels and places to eat, you should probe into the issue beforehand trying to avoid on-the-spot decisions in Serpukhov.
Accommodation.
The option that might look attractive at first sight for frugal tourists is the hotel Iliance (Альянс) since it's relatively cheap and looks well on-line. It's one of the rare cases when photos give you the impression that has nothing in common with the reality. A double there is from 1700 = 30 dollars, it's considered to be cheap in Russia.
We always try to go for a cheaper option, however, after we had been shown the rooms
A one-day trip to Tver was tentative with further trips there we are looking forward to now.
Tver is one of the oldest cities of Russia founded in 1135. Having been a capital of Russia once, it still creates a vivid impression of a well-preserved town and retains its atmosphere. The advantageous for a medieval town location on the Volga and Tvertsa and the T'maka Rivers only enhances the now relaxed atmosphere there.
In 1247 Yaroslav Yaroslavich (Yaroslavich is a patronymic), Alexander Nevsky's brother, became the Prince of Vladimir (a then capital of Russia). By moving to Tver he factually moved a capital of Russia from Vladimir to Tver.
It was ice rain last year in Moscow region. The trees were all in ice crust. Lots of them broke under the weight of ice. You can still see them bent in the forests.
There is the Museum of the town living in the center on Uspenskay (Assumption Day) Square. It's small but interesting and has some entertaining exhibits which show vividly how people used to live.
The Museum of Uglich's Kremlin also houses armory, clothes, shoes, cutlery that date back several ages.
Dushegreya (soul-warming clothes, sort of)) was worn since 17th century. I think it used to be a warm comfortable clothing article for a working woman. The climate in Russia is severe and women needed warm clothes, that would not tie them up or restrict movements. This kind of clothes seems to be the suitable one.
Nowadays, when industry and agriculture have almost been completely destroyed by the present regime, wild animals get closer to dwindling amounts of people on the outskirts of the country. It used to be unheard of in the past.
The fields were abundant in crops and harvested every year so people expanded their influence on the area. Factories were scattered all over the country. Nowadays, farms are rare. Factories are mostly destroyed.
Wild animals come closer to towns and villages due to decreased human activity in all areas of life. WWF activists rejoice!
Well, I am trying to compose a post about Uglich's sights which is not easy since they are plenty. So far I 've just been able to make the one about Uglich's cats.
The history of the city has been connected with the death of the last ancient Rurik dynasty heir, Dmitry, the son of Ivan the Terrible, at the age of 8.
Nothing of such scale has happened in Uglich since then. As one of my colleagues remarked, "They(Uglichans) seem to still remain under the impression of the death of the prince Dmitry. "
The Transfiguration Cathedral
The whole "accident" happened on 15th of May, 1591 in Uglich, since, after Ivan the Terrible's death, Prince Dmitry with his mother and a wet-nurse had been sent away from Moscow by the boyar Boris Godunov, a claimant to the Russian throne then. Boris Godunov has still been suspected to have ordered the assassination of Prince Dmitry.
Russian winter may look sombre in the cities, but in the country it's enjoyable, fresh, crispy.
There can be so much snow that you won't be able to stride freely. That's the best exercise for exhausted yappies, though. The pictures were taken in April. You see there is still a lot of snow in Russia when crocuses blossom in Europe.
We went to the Prioka Sanatorium on Friday. After hitting the road at 6-7pm we in the best-case scenario arrived at the Sanatorium at 1 or 2 am. Not because of the distance, but because of the notorious Moscow traffic jams, which in future are going to become one of its sights. Since I'm absolutely positive that Moscow with its corrupted incapable and impotent officials will remain the only metropolis with such horrific traffic jams in the nearest future.
On Sunday we usually get back forcing our way back home. These pictures were taken in May from the 1st to 3rd, so you can get the idea of what the weather is like in central Russia at the beginning of May.
The roads is something I have to mention, although the issue is not a flattering one. The roads in Russia are under continual construction. You never know when they finish fixing and even if they finish this particular part of a road, they will start fixing or reconstructing a part 2 kilometers further. With all that never-ending, ever-lasting, seemingly scrupulous process the roads in Russia remain bad enough to start it all over again.
The road to Prioka looked like this a year ago. I'm sure nothing has changed since then.
Well, it takes about 5-6 hours to get there but it's worth it. Silence. Nature all around. Splendour.
I've written about the rooms in the previous post.
The service in the sanatorium is a no-frill type but not obtrusive at the same time.
The canteen is a modest spacious hall. The food is basic, healthy. It's usually a small serving of salad, a bowl of soup, meatballs with mashed potato or rice as a side dish followed by a compote (stewed fruit drink) or some wild-berry drink. They also served different raw vegetables finely cut so my husband made up a salad. This it typical Soviet-era "cuisine". They may serve some meat now and then but it won't be a substantial piece of meat.
the hedgehog has been found by the stray dog that accompanied us all the way
I remember staying in Switzerland. The country is beautiful but you're never alone there. Walking in the Swiss forest means running across people here and there no matter how far you are from a town. A bit disturbing for me. Walking along the bank here is being truly alone, relaxing completely, enjoying the scenery to the fullest.
up the river
ever-lasting fixing and renovating, up the river
walking along the Oka
the rubbish has certainly been left over by the Russians
some people don't value the beauty
that's Russian mentality...
There are usually very few people staying there in low season. No barbecuing, no noisy teenagers. You'll have all that beauty to yourselves.
And some cats we've fed at the sanatorium's canteen. They turned out to be starving.
I've never liked touristy spots, where they are packed like sardines loafing about without even truly enjoying themselves. The problem of such places is their lack of uniqueness. Bar-hopping isn't so different in any country as well as staying on the beach all day long.
The Oka River is one of the most beautiful places I've seen. I'd been to Sri Lanka, Switzerland before I went to the Oka. And when I saw the scenery I was stunned.
The Oka River bank, the Prioka Sanatorium is on the hill in the forest you see
Horses have always drawn my most affectionate admiration. Since the age of 3. Just looking at them was a pleasure, not to mention driving a cart when I was about 5 or 6 and my granny let me rein horses on the way to town.
I'm going to write about a horse-breeding center in this post.
The country's population is not just poor but destitute, deprived of most inalienable rights, so most of them don't think about how to learn to ride or mountain ski ... So horse breeding industry is just beginning to emerge. However, there are a few places where horses are groomed, well-kept, and I even know at least one instructor, knowledgeable and able to communicate with customers.
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Dushegreya (soul-warming clothes, sort of)) was worn since 17th century. I think it used to be a warm comfortable clothing article for a working woman. The climate in Russia is severe and women needed warm clothes, that would not tie them up or restrict movements. This kind of clothes seems to be the suitable one.
